OPERATORS MANUAL:
Typhoon - Stroker
WARNING: READ AND UNDERSTAND THIS MANUAL
BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO OPERATE THIS PAINTGUN!!!
IF YOU DO NOT, you may not be happy with the results.
Handle safely at all times.
Always wear approved safety goggles!
Many years ago I discovered that most of the Paintball players were
considerably more youthful than myself. This realization led me to
conclude that "if I can't outrun them, I had better be able to
out-gun them." Thus, I set out to provide myself with a paintgun
that would give me that edge. From quick changes, to Hi-performance
valve designs, to Some interesting concepts in launch tube (barrel)
configuration; the steps were taken to reach the highest levels of
ON-FIELD effectiveness. The next step was to take the most accurate
and most dependable gun that I had, and automate it. I built my first
semi-auto paintgun in November 1988 and I am still using that first
gun, regularly. During this time, this gun (Camille) has fired an
estimated 1,000,000 shots while needing only one (1) repair. That one
repair was needed for a failed valve seal during the first few weeks
of its existence. There has not been a need to take the gun apart
since then. (The cause of that one failure has long since been
eliminated.) Our paintguns are designed and built to be the most
effective equipment on the Paintball field without compromising
Accuracy, Firepower, or Dependability. If you pay a little attention
to, and take care of this equipment, it can last a lifetime and give
you more control over your game than you ever thought possible. Design
characteristics allow the use of this equipment in just about any
environment/weather conditions that you might want to play in; Without
taking away from or adding anything to it. There are two (2)
adjustments that must be made occasionally to accomplish this. One
adjustment to keep the velocity of the Paintball at a safe but
effective speed. The other adjustment is to maintain the pressure for
the automation system at proper operating levels. (more details on
these adjustments later) The reason for having these adjustments built
in is that the pressure of C02 changes as the temperature of it's
storage container changes. (Example: 50 degrees F. equals 600 p.s.i.
and 100 degrees F. equals 1300 p.s.i. approx.) This is the nature of
CO2, so an effective paintgun must be easily adaptable easily to such
a wide range of conditions. Your paintgun has but one purpose; to hit
what you aim at, so as to Eliminate Opponents. What you now have is
the best thing possible to accomplish that purpose! The following
Information will show you what you must do for your paintgun so that
your paintgun can do its job effectively for you. Keep in mind that
your paintgun cannot play the game for you. However, if you give 110%
to your game, this paintgun can keep up with you.
READ AND REMEMBER
THERE MAY BE A QUIZ !!
CAUTION: This is not a toy and should be used only under adult
supervision. Misuse or careless use may cause serious injury -
especially to the eyes. Users and observers must wear approved eye and
face protection!!!
Do not insert fingers into action when the gun is cocked or gas
supply is attached. This gun is powered by CO2 gas under very high
pressure. Extreme care should be taken when any gas source is attached
to the gun!!!! May be dangerous up to 100 yards. (91 meters) Use a
barrel plug when not on the playing field. Always assume that this
paintgun is loaded and potentially dangerous. When handling, always
CHECK to make sure that it is not loaded. NEVER leave the CO2 gas
supply attached to any paintgun when it is not in use. NEVER use a C02
bottle that is over heated. Follow DISCHARGE PROCEDURE immediately
after playing! Point only at things that you INTEND to shoot! SPECIAL
CAUTION!! Use only D.O.T. approved C02 cylinders with a high quality
pin-type screw-in valve that is properly installed and torqued (tightened)into
the cylinder. A loose bottle valve can be extremely dangerous. A CO2
bottle could become a deadly, high velocity, projectile!!!!!
The use of LIQUID CO2 should be reserved for very cold weather
conditions ; 32 degrees or below. This paintgun is tolerant of liquid,
but a steady diet of liquid CO2 will cause eratic behavior and may
shorten the effective lifespan of any paintgun.
Do Not use an expansion chamber on this equipment; especially in
cold weather. Over expansion of the CO2 greatly reduces its natural
potential energy and you will find it difficult, if not impossible, to
reach and maintain effective and consistant velocities.
Maximum Velocity is 300 feet per second. - 205 miles per hour-
Velocities over 300 fps must be avoided as Injuries may result or you
could make somebody very angry !!! (275 fps to 285 fps should give you
the best results).
Now that you know, or should know, what it is that you have to work
with, lets go shooting.
The Items you will need:
1) Paintgun
2) CO2 Bottle
3) Hex Wrench(s) (Allen type) 3/16" and 5/64"
4) Operating Instructions
5) a Feed System
6) lubricating Oil
7) Desire to learn
1. Point the gun UP (to not get liquid into gun when charging).
2. Pull and Hold trigger to the rear. (to know when gun is charged
and to begin cycle of operation).
3. Screw in CO2 bottle (Operating cylinder should move the bolt to
the rear, rapidly).
4. Release the trigger fully. (The bolt should return to the forward
position, just as rapidly. The gun should now be cocked and ready to
fire. If not, see REGULATOR instructions).
5. PULL and RELEASE the trigger fully for complete cycling. (the
system should operate smoothly and quickly. If not, see REGULATOR
instructions and adjust for proper operating pressure as needed).
6. PULL back and hold the trigger (to check for proper operating
pressure), push on the back of the bolt while holding the trigger
back it should be spongy but hard to push in. If it feels right, you
are set and ready to go, if not, refer to REGULATOR instructions.
7. Put safety on and insert a barrel plug into the muzzle.
8. Install loader and ad paintballs.
9. Go to firing range or the Paintball field.
10. Remove the barrel plug, disengage safety and HAVE A GOOD TIME!!
SAFELY, please.
11. Set velocity to any level below 300 fps. Use a chronograph!
Don't guess!!!
The operating system regulator is the heart of this automation system.
This regulator reduces the normally high pressure of CO2 down to a
lower pressure (approx. 80 to 100 psi.) for safe and efficient use in
the automation system; that is separate from the firing system. As the
temperature rises and lowers, the pressure of stored CO2 will also go
up and down (low temp. = lower pressures, high temp. = higher
pressures). The variations in supply pressure make it necessary to
adjust the system regulator from time to time to maintain proper
operating pressures. This system's regulator is specifically designed
for use with CO2 and to minimize the need for adjustment. After an
initial break-in period of approx. 2000-4000 shots, you should find
that the regulator has "taken it's SET" and will need no
further adjustment. The adjustment screw is located at the front end
of the regulator housing (the tube on the right side of the paintgun
for typhoons and in the front for most strokers) and requires a
3/16" HEXagon (allen type wrench) wrench to make any adjustments.
SPECIAL NOTE: as the supply pressure going into the regulator goes
up or down, the pressure from the regulator to the system will go up
and down exactly opposite. (IE. Supply pressure up = regulated
pressure down and vice versa.) As you become familiar with this
system, you will discover that there is an operational SWEET SPOT.
(The point of adjustment where everything is working just right) Find
that SWEET SPOT and leave it there!! Adjustments should only be made
when necessary; Which should only be because of extreme weather
condition changes (or during the normal Break-in period). The way to
find your paintgun's SWEET SPOT follows:
PROCEDURE
1.Be sure that the temperatures of the paintgun, the CO2 bottle and
the air are all the same. This is important to establish an initial
balance.
2.Check Pressure (This is done while holding the trigger back, thus
keeping the bolt held back). While the bolt is back, try to push it
forward. It should move a little but be stiff, (about like trying to
squeeze a super ball). If the pressure is too low, the gun probably
will not cock and the bolt will be too easy to move forward. If the
pressure is too high the bolt will feel rigid and be almost unmovable.
(Extreme high pressure may cause the trigger to stick in rear position
when released or the OVER PRESSURE RELIEF system will activate,
allowing gas to escape through the hole near the regulator adjusting
screw).
3.ADJUST the OPERATING PRESSURE only as needed. To INCREASE pressure,
turn the regulator adjusting screw CLOCKWISE; to DECREASE pressure
turn the regulator adjusting screw COUNTER-CLOCKWISE. To make
adjustments, use the 3/16" HEX (Allen type) wrench provided. Make
adjustments only 1/4 turn at a time. Cycle the gun a few times and
check pressure after each adjustment.
THE GOAL HERE IS TO FIND THE LOWEST PRESSURE THAT PROVIDES FULL
CYCLING OPERATION. THEN, INCREASE THE PRESSURE BY 1/4 TO 1/2 TURN ON
THE ADJUSTING SCREW.
The regulator should now be set properly and should only need to be
re-adjusted occasionally during the short break-in period of about
2000-3000 shots. This break-in period is needed to allow the springs
and seals of the regulator to take their "SET". Once the
regulator has settled in, you may not find it necessary to ever adjust
it again.
SYMPTOMS THAT WOULD SHOW THAT ADJUSTMENT IS NEEDED AND PROBABLE
SOLUTIONS
* Bolt does not move at all when air is applied. Check gas supply,
check safety, Increase pressure.
* Bolt comes only part way back and returns forward when the trigger
is released. Check gas supply, increase pressure.
* Bolt comes almost all the way back but does not return when
trigger is released.
* Pull the bolt to the rear and release, it will return forward,
increase pressure slightly.
* Bolt snaps to rear but does not return when the trigger is
released and the trigger does not return to full forward position.
Pressure is too high!!! Help the trigger forward, (bolt should also
return forward). DECREASE pressure, check gas supply.
* Gas escaping at the hole near regulator adjusting screw means that
the Over Pressure Relief is activated and is venting. (leaking)
Pressure is way to high!!! DECREASE pressure immediately!!
IMPORTANT NOTE; the OVER PRESSURE RELIEF valve will RESET itself when
the regulated pressure has been lowered to normal operating pressure.
REMINDER: Turn the regulator adjusting knob CLOCKWISE to INCREASE
pressure and COUNTER CLOCKWISE to DECREASE pressure for the automation
system.
(Or as LORI would say, "Righty - Tighty, Lefty - Loosey")
This adjustment is to set the speed (velocity) that you want to
fire a paintball A HEXagon wrench (Allen type wrench) is required 5/64
for back-bottle style or 3/16 for other styles. The VELOCITY ADJUSTING
SCREW is located at the very rear of the lower tube. See photos
following this section. Turn the adjusting screw CLOCKWISE to INCREASE
the velocity or COUNTER-CLOCKWISE to DECREASE the velocity. What this
adjustment does is change the spring tension behind the hammer. This
determines how hard the hammer hits the valve open, to let air out,
and push the ball down the barrel. For best results, adjust velocity
to approximately 280 f.p.s..
USE A CHRONOGRAPH, DON'T GUESS!!!
ANOTHER SPECIAL NOTE: The automation system regulator and the
velocity adjusting system are completely separate: Neither adjustment
should have any effect on the other!
BOLT CONNECTING PIN
This is the retractable pin with the knurled silver knob that
passes through and is affixed to the rear of the bolt. It allows for
ultra quick removal of the bolt when cleaning is needed (which should
not be very often). To remove the bolt: Pull out on the knob to
retract the pin from the connecting link. While holding the knob out,
rotate it clockwise from the 2 o'clock position to the 4 o'clock
position then pull straight to the rear. To reinstall the bolt,
reverse the previous procedure. There is a stud located in the bottom
center of the bolt that must travel through a slot machined into the
lower left rear of the barrel. Be certain that the pin is engaged
fully with the connecting link before operating. Note: The removal of
the bolt may be different on some conversions if a "strip
notch" had previously been machined into the gun.
GAS SUPPLY RECEIVER
The gas supply receiver (also known as A.S.A. air system adapter)
will accept only standard Pin-Valve type tanks or appropriate hose
adapters that have an O-ring seal around the front end. NOTE: STANDARD
PIPE FITTINGS WILL NOT WORK! The pin valve is opened by a stud in the
bottom of the gas supply receiver. To charge the gun, screw in the
tank only far enough to open the valve and stop there. This will help
to prolong the life of the 0-ring. If you continue to turn the valve
into the receiver under pressure, damage to the 0-ring may result. A
little oil or light grease on the threads of the valve and receiver
will also reduce wear. lMPORTANT---Keep the gas supply receiver and
tank valves clean!! Grit in the gas supply will damage seals and
moving parts.
BALL FEED DETENT
This is a small but important part of the proper operation
(feeding and loading) of your paintgun. It consists of C-shaped spring
and a 1/4" delrin ball. The delrin ball protrudes into the feed
port area of the barrel to maintain proper positioning of the
paintball, so it can be pushed smoothly into the barrel by the bolt.
In other words, the ball feed detent stops double feeding. Removal of
the ball feed detent must be done carefully. Take care not to stretch
the C-shaped spring out of shape. Squeeze in on the "C" to
tighten the spring when reinstalling the detent.
Operating Cylinder
This is the tube on the right side of the paintgun. When the 4-way
valve is actuated, air from the pneumatic regulator fills the front
end of the cylinder, also called a RAM, forcing it rearward, recocking
the gun and allowing another ball to be loaded into the chamber. When
the trigger is released, air flow is directed to the rear end of the
cylinder, forcing it forward, bringing the bolt with it, sealing the
breech.
SAFETY
The Safety is a functional part of this equipment and should be
engaged whenever the paintgun is not in use. The Safely blocks the
trigger from being pulled accidentally. On pistols (Typhoon and
STROKER) it is a sliding pin located behind the trigger. Move the pin
to the right for Safe and to the left for Fire. A red ring around the
pin will be visible on the left when in the Fire position. On the
Hurricane, the Safety is a rocker type switch located above the
trigger at the rear of the gun and is marked with F & S. (Fire
& Safe)
SAVE THE EYES... USE THE SAFETY and a BARREL PLUG
DISCHARGE PROCEDURE
As soon as possible after using your paintgun, you should always
remove the gas supply. NEVER leave a pressurized gun unattended!!! The
best way to clear your gun is to unscrew the tank ONLY 1/8 to 1/4 turn
counter clockwise then fire the gun in a safe direction until no gas
remains in the gun. Then remove the tank completely. If you unscrew
the tank while under pressure, the high pressure gas escaping past the
0-ring can and will damage the 0-ring. (A small stream of high
pressure gas can cut like a knife.)
MAINTENANCE !!!
Lack of proper maintenance can cause the early death of any
machine!! You paid good money for this equipment; now, take care of
it!!! MAINTENANCE = Regular CLEANING and LUBRICATION
Keep your equipment clean and properly lubricated and you can expect
many years of trouble free operation.
A necessary parts of proper maintenance! If you want your paintgun to
enjoy a long and trouble free life, proper lubrication is essential.
There is a bottle of oil included with this gun; use it frequently but
sparingly. Use only approved lubricants like AIR TOOL oil or DOW33. Air Tool oil is
provided with your gun and is available at Palmer's or your local
Hardware or Tool Supply. DO NOT USE SPRAY ON LUBRICANTS OR WHITE
LITHIUM GREASE. Most spray lubricants contain solvents that can be
harmful to seals. CO2 and Lithium grease combine to become something
close to chewing gum. Only about 7 to 9 drops of oil are required to
lubricate your paintgun completely. One drop of oil on each of the
0-rings of the bolt (3). Two or three drops to the hammer and
mainspring (applied through the slot in the rear of the barrel, under
the bolt... and two or three drops into the pneumatic system. To
lubricate the system internally, apply oil to the depression in the
face of the tank valve or apply directly into the gas supply receiver,
then charge the gun up and fire several times. CO2 moving through the
gun will distribute the oil as needed. Any excess oil will pass
through the gun and some excess oil will be deposited in the barrel,
reducing accuracy if not removed. Internal lubrication of the
Pneumatic system is only needed every 2000 to 3000 shots. Remember,
only 2 or 3 drops of oil at a time.
The best thing that we have found to thoroughly clean your paintgun
with is WARM WATER and lots of it. At the field, a spray bottle with a
strong stream will do. At home, try the kitchen sink. Save water and
take your paintgun into the shower with you. Remove the bolt for
cleaning. The bolt is the only part that you should have to remove,
even for the most thorough cleaning. Flush the gun thoroughly with
warm water. This will remove any dirt, paint, gelatin and most of the
oil. Shake out any excess water. Compressed air or a home blow dryer,
on WARM only, will help to get the water out. After drying the
outside, charge up the gun and fire (in a safe direction with no
paint) several times to get the moisture out of the internals. Remove
the CO2 supply and lubricate as directed (next section). Recharge the
paintgun and fire several more times to spread the lubrication
throughout the system. Now its clean and ready for action or storage.
Before shooting, swab the barrel with a clean, dry swab, cloth or
paper towel. Accuracy depends on a clean and dry barrel. Any thing
less than immaculate will not allow the accuracy that you expect. On
field cleaning can be done in just a few seconds by removing the bolt
and pushing a swab through from the rear. A double ended swab works
best. A mixture of water and alcohol helps speed up the drying process
when at the field. Water will cause no harm to this paintgun because
of the materials used in its manufacture. Thorough cleaning should not
take more than 5 to 10 minutes.
Our paintguns and this manual are products of nearly six years of
research and development, heavy use and abuse, severe testing and
critical evaluation. We have strived to provide our customers with the
most trouble free equipment possible. What you will read here comes
from our experience over the years of trying to fulfill our goal of
superior and lasting performance. Your understanding of this equipment
will help us to meet these goals. If you should discover ways to
improve on the product and/or this manual, please let us know so we
can pass it on for others.
The most common causes of trouble are:
* Improper regulator setting: See REGULATOR
ADJUSTMENT section.
* Lack of proper maintenance (Too much dirt, not enough oil): Refer
to MAINTENANCE and LUBRICATION
sections.
* Improper gas supply: Empty or nearly empty CO2 bottle, an over
filled bottle, or an improperly operating bottle valve will cause
erratic operation and a wide range in velocity variation. (The gas
supply is the first thing we check when a problem occurs).
* Improper re-assembly: Usually indicated by leaking air fittings
and seals, or improper timing of the firing and re-cocking sequence.
(If you simply must take it apart, be sure you know what you are
doing, have replacement seals and gaskets handy and use the proper
tools with a firm but gentle hand). If you have ANY doubts, call for
assistance. Seek the help of a QUALIFIED
PROFESSIONAL!!
* Breaking or cutting paintballs during rapid firing: Most commonly
caused by improper trigger operation; (IE. "SHORT
STROKING" the trigger. A FULL trigger pull and release is
required for proper operation. Familiarize yourself with the
operation of the trigger by shooting a bottle-full of air only
before using paint. You will easily know when you have miss-stroked
the trigger by the sound of the shot. Also be sure that the Ball
Feed index unit is in proper position and that the regulator is
properly adjusted.
NOTE: Rapid firing of long strings of shots may also cause problems
with feeding from simply outrunning the loader.
* Air Leaks: Air (CO2) heard escaping down the barrel suggests a
damaged or contaminated exhaust valve (aka: cup seal) that probably
should be replaced. This requires the same special tools as used in
Sheridan/PMI paintguns. SPECIAL NOTE: There is a set screw into the
bottom of the lower receiver tube, under the grip frame, which must
be removed before you can remove the valve components.
* Other air leaks can be easily located by applying soapy water to
the suspect area, and can often be cured by the gentle tightening of
a fitting or the replacement of a gasket.
* Contact PALMER'S PURSUIT SHOP for assistance if you should
encounter any leaks. (Especially any internal ones that you cannot
locate with soapy water.)
* High temperature weather conditions, (above 90 degrees F.) may
cause some erratic behavior due to the nature of CO2. At these
temperatures CO2 just does not want to be a liquid anymore, and
pressures will change quite noticeably and quickly with just a few
degrees in temperature change! This is really not a problem if you
accept it as the nature of things, and adjust as needed. Refer to
REGULATOR ADJUSTMENT section.
* Bolt comes to the rear and a ball feeds into the barrel but does
not fire (usually indicated by two or more balls being pushed into
the barrel one after the other): Remove gas supply and pull the bolt
to the rear manually. The bolt should pull the hammer back far
enough to be caught by the sear (to be cocked) plus
approx.1/16". If not, an adjustment to the position of the bolt
connecting link at the cylinder rod is required. Hold the link with
a wrench and loosen the 7/16" jam nut. Turn the connecting link
one-half to one full turn counter-clockwise to extend the distance
that the bolt is pushed to the rear and tighten the jam nut and try
it out.
* Unstable velocity conditions are usually a result of gas supply
source conditions. Conditions such as an overfilled or overheated
tank or a nearly empty or very cold tank at start-up will cause wide
variations in velocities during use. It is important to use a
properly filled, tank that has been allowed to warm up to present
air temperature, at start-up. Ideally, a tank that is filled to
slightly less than max. capacity should be used. (Example: 11oz. in
a 12oz.tank) Here is why: If you use a tank that is overrfilled or
overheated, the pressure inside the gun will be higher than normal
which means that there is higher pressure holding the valve closed.
This then makes it necessary to increase the tension on the hammer
spring to generate enough force to drive the valve open against the
higher pressure. Then, as the gas is consumed the pressure in the
tank and the gun goes down and there is less pressure holding the
valve closed. With less resistance, the hammer will now drive the
valve open further and hold it open longer causing the velocity to
noticeably rise. Just the opposite happens with a freshly filled,
very cold tank. Lower pressure holding the valve closed = less
hammer force needed to drive the firing valve open. Then the
pressure goes up and there isn't enough hammer force to get the
valve open far enough and the velocity goes down. Although, if you
start out with the gun, the tank and the air all at the same
temprature, you will see very little change in velocity during use.
The cycles of operation; Firing, Cocking, Feeding, Loading, must
happen in the right order or this paintgun will not work properly. In
these paintguns, proper timing is accomplished by the trigger
operation of two systems simultaneously, in proper sequence. The
hammer must be released by the sear, to hit the valve, just slightly
BEFORE the the 4-way valve is activated, by the bellcrank, to push the
bolt rearward. The mechanism to accomplish this operation is located
inside the trigger frame, under the grips. The trigger- bellcrank
push-rod connector, at the bellcrank ( L-shaped white plastic piece),
is the only adjustment that might unfavorably affect the timing. Both
the trigger and the push-rod connector should be in the fully forward
position when the clamping screw is tightened. Also, check inside the
frame for: Centered positioning of the 4-way valve. No pinched or
kinked tubing No foreign matter to bind the parts. If you should run
into a situation that you do not understand about this paintgun,
please refer back to earlier sections of this manual prior to calling
Palmer's Pursuit Shop. (916) 923-9676 If and then you call for
assistance, one of the first questions that you will be asked by our
staff is; Did you read the Operators Manual? If you haven't, you may
be asked to call back after you have read it.
THERE ARE SOME THINGS THAT ARE BETTER LEFT TO A PROFESSIONAL!!!
We at Palmer's Pursuit Shop take great pride in offering to you, the
customer, a high quality and a highly dependable piece of equipment.
We want you to have that same pride and confidence, allowing you the
highest levels of enjoyment and accomplishment in your game. To
achieve this, we thoroughly test and very critically inspect each and
every piece of equipment before delivery. As of yet, none of us here
are able to walk on water! So, it is possible that you may find
yourself in need of advanced service and/or repair to your paintgun.
If so, we will be here to help keep your paintgun performing at the
highest levels of effectiveness. We don't just stand behind our
products; we stand WITH our products! Palmers Pursuit Shop warrants
this paintgun to be free from defects in materials and/or workmanship,
to the original purchaser, for one year. [See enclosed warranty
sheet.] Any needed service/repair under Palmer's warranty will be done
at Palmer's Pursuit Shop only, unless otherwise directed by Palmer.
Any and all warranty work needed will be done IMMEDIATELY upon arrival
at our shop and returned ASAP. You may be shooting it but "it is
still my baby, and I don't mind taking care of it" is the way
GLENN PALMER feels about it. Always seek the help of a QUALIFIED
PROFESSIONAL for service and repair of any equipment! "If it
isn't broke, don't fix it!" If you mess with it you may find
yourself responsible for it. Refer to the TROUBLE
SHOOTING SECTION.
Palmer's Pursuit Shop
3951 Development Drive Suite #3
Sacramento, Ca. 95838
Ph. (916) 923-9676
Fax (916) 923-9674
E-Mail craig@palmer-pursuit.com
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